previous | next | index
SAMPLES
SUMMARY
Minolta began producing TLR’s back in 1937 with the MinoltaFlex line. A prolific model line from Minolta, the Autocord is arguably one of the most underrated classic cameras in the Twin Lens Reflex category. Twenty-four different models of the Autocord were produced from 1955 to 1966. This particular model was simply called the ‘Autocord (Export)’ and introduced in 1958. It featured the Seikosha-MX shutter, one second to 1/500 with Bulb and Time settings for long exposures, X-M-F flash synchronization, and the fantastic 75mm Chiyoko Rokkor lens. There is also a double-exposure prevention system, with override switch if multiple exposures are desired. Minolta utilized an LVS (Light Value System) for the 1955 Autocord L, which included a non-coupled selenium meter built into the camera, and continued to use LVS on future Autocord models, even those without the meter, such as this model. The meter produced a proprietary exposure number instead of an f-stop and shutter speed. The sliders (not knobs) which control the shutter and aperture settings point to LVS numbers on the faceplate instead of shutter speeds and aperture numbers. The equivalent shutter speed and aperture numbers actually are displayed in the small windows above the lens. This is easily viewed by the photographer while looking down toward the viewfinder, alleviating the need to look at the actual numbers on the face of the camera.
Focus is accomplished by a slider located under the lens board. There is no depth of field scale in this location, just a distance scale in meters. A Depth-of-Field scale is located around the film advance lever. Simply turn the dial until the matching distance number (i.e. 15 feet) is above the red pointer and it will indicate the DOF range for the distance currently selected on the camera’s focus slider. In the example of 15 feet the DOF is 8 feet to infinity at f22. While the camera as a whole is built very well, the focus slider was made with a softer material and has a tendency to break if forced. There is a PC sync connection for off-camera flash, cold shoe and a nice feature is that the film is transported from the top to the bottom of the camera rather than the more common bottom to top as with many other TLR manufactured cameras. There is no red window on the back of the Autocord. Film frames are counted down via frame counter window on the side of the camera near the film advance lever.
The Autocord incorporates an additional spring when switching from 1/250 to 1/500. It has been suggested that changing from 1/250 to 1/500 should be performed when the shutter is ‘not’ cocked as this could cause strain on the shutter mechanism. If this is done after the shutter is cocked, moving the slider from 1/250 to 1/500 can be difficult and should not be forced. Most models, like this one, utilize 120 roll film for twelve 6x6cm negatives, while the more recent models (’65-’66) do allow for 220 film.
CLEANING AND REPAIR
I picked this little beauty up on EBay for a song. If you can believe the seller, I’m now the second owner, the first being her recently deceased Grandfather. It was listed as functional, so I took a chance. Considering the price, it was worth the gamble. Upon arrival the camera did function, although the shutter was a little stiff from lack of use. Firing the shutter multiple times at all speeds corrected this issue. Luckily for me the focus lever wasn’t frozen, which seems to be the case for many of these models if left unattended for a while. This tends to result in broken focus sliders, since the metal used is soft, the slider can break if forced. Push gently, if frozen try some lighter fluid in the slider track and around the housing. The grid viewfinder is bright enough in well lit scenarios that I rarely need the pop-up magnifier, but in low light situations focusing can be difficult. The coated lens on this model is near perfect with only cleaning needed on the front and rear elements. The lens is easily removed with the correct wrench by simply unscrewing the front and rear elements. The main problem with this camera was cosmetic. The black leatherette was deteriating and missing on the back of the camera body. www.cameraleather.com is a valued resource that I highly recommend. They have a kit specifically for Autocord models. Just give them the specifics of your camera and choose the leatherette you like, and you’ll receive the self-sticking covering that fits the camera perfectly. Removing the old stuff can be the chore depending on the state of the adhesive. The blue leather I chose looks fantastic.
Open the camera by pulling on the small round knob at the top left of the camera body, load the film in the top and line up the arrows on the film backing with the red dots on either side of the film guides. Close the camera and advance the film until the frame counter displays ‘1’. Start shooting.
EBAY SUGGESTIONS
There are many models of the Autocord so do your homework and decide which one is best for your needs, then bid accordingly. For a basic model such as the Autocord (export) which has no meter, auctions have ranged from as little as $20 to around $100. I’d say $50-80 is reasonable. I have seen them go for more, but question the buyer’s knowledge of the specific model in these cases. Full featured models with built-in (functional) meters can go for around $100 - $150, with more recent metered models getting over $200 in some cases. Of course these prices all depend on camera functionality. Research, Research, Research are my top three suggestions…and patience. There are several auctions for Autocords on the ‘bay each month; don’t think you’re missing out on a ‘rare’ camera (unless it actually is!) These aren’t light cameras so expect to pay $10 to $15 dollars for shipping depending on destination and method used.
previous | next | index
Minolta Links
Autocord Stats
Dante Stella
How To Camera
MinMan TLR
Flickr Autocord Group
Autocord FAQ
Autocord L Manual
|
